Halloween Party!

Some photos from the big night:









I still have a lot to do to "complete" them in my mind, but they were mostly finished for the Halloween Party (which turned out to be a lame bust :( ). I'll be updating the blogs as I fix things in the future. I'm a bit burned out though for all the work I've done in a month so it might be awhile... lol.

General Design

I've finally decided on my basic design for the two outfits (yes, milord decided he wanted one too) and have drawn a very poor picture. It has also photographed kinda blurry but it gives an idea of what I'm heading for at least.



I'm still "iffy" on milord's breeches. Since he's wearing his knee boots (yah yah I know the drawing of them is HORRIFIC) I'm leaning more towards slops/plunderhose instead of the breeches because it's more historically accurate. I guess it's up to him... meh.

Anywho... on to making blog entries for each part of this project so I can list even more thoroughly what needs to be done so I'm not all unorganized and frantic at the last minute as usual.

Halloween Costumes?

So, milord came to me a few evenings ago and mentioned a Halloween costume party his work would be throwing next month. He expressed an interest to go in his SCA garb. Normally, SCAdians have an aversion to wearing our garb to *costume* parties because our outfits are not COSTUMES. I assume because we have so very little chances to wear them over here though is why he wanted to go as such. I feel much the same way and have no problem with that, except...

I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR! *gasp*

No really, this isn't the typical female wailing whilst gazing at a closet full of clothes. My garb has "broken" (or needed fixing in the first place) since the last time I wore it (Drachenwald Crown Tourney 2006) and I haven't fixed it yet. The gathering on my chemise/camica has snapped around the collar, the sleeves were too long and one was wider than the other. The corded corset was rigged up in the back last minute when I got fed up with the thing because I'd already taken it apart 4 times to fix other issues and thinking I was done, hand-sewed 16 eyelets for the lacing before noticing yet another "issue". So I need another one of those. The gold court gown was an abysmal endeavor that will need to be re-done completely (bodice too narrow, straps too close together, bad polyester partlet/Elizabethan shirt, screwed up on the bodice point, skirt was poorly cut at opening to forepart, etc etc etc.... it's bad, trust me on this one). I'm not too torn up about there being so much wrong with it considering I literally drafted and sewed the thing myself in 3 days. I'm not exactly an expert seamstress in the first place and a time crunch like that for something so elaborate is BOUND to have mistakes.

We're also under a budget constraint due to having to move back to the US sometime in the next few months and needed money badly for that and keeping us from being homeless afterwards. So, I gotta work (mostly) with what I have. Which, lucky for me is considerable since I'm a fabric/notions hoarder.

To start I have *acres* of this beautiful crimson cotton velvet for the gown. PLENTY for even the most intimidating Elizabethan skirt and then some (perhaps a matching doublet and gown for milord?) The gold brocade from the last failure can be repurposed as a forepart and perhaps sleeves. I still have oodles of hemp for another corded corset (this time in a tabbed effigy-style for the major boob action *nudge nudge wink wink*). Along with various other fabrics, buttons (OMG, **TONS** of buttons), glass pearls and other notions, I think I'm 80% ready to build a complete outfit... *glances at calendar* in less than a month. *faints* I know I'm not going to have the time to do everything I want to it, so I also want to make it at least heading in the direction I will later take it for SCA-use.

On to the list. I gotta have a list or my mind keeps jumping from one thing to another trying to figure too much shit out simultaneously. It's like crafting ADD. Let's start from the bottom out:

* smock (basic undergarment dress - already have one but need to make sure it fits still)
* stockings/garters (gotta see about making my own... yay fun)
* shoes (have already, but need to line heel with felt or something because it gives me a wicked blister)
* corded effigy corset (I'm looking forward to making this)
* farthingale (think petticoat or hoop skirt... this will help the skirt keep it's bell-shape while being worn)
* bumroll (umm... exactly what it sounds like. A padded roll tied over your bum that keeps the skirts poufy in the back. Also helps give the illusion of a skinnier waist since the corsets job is to shape your chest, not cinch your waist. Think - Elizabethan equivalent of "junk in the trunk")
* kirtle skirt (to show off the forepart (... might skip this one)
* partlet/shirt (this essentially helps to cover every inch of your body EXCEPT for your cleavage... the Elizabethan men apparently really liked boobs)
* gown (yeah I know, took a long time to get here didn't it?)
* sleeves (matching the forepart I think... but dunno yet how I will go with this)
* headwear (either a flat cap or perhaps a pill box hat with a scarf detailing - dunno yet on this either. Could always attempt a french hood if I have enough time.)

And that should complete it. Other than perhaps a belt of some sort and carrying a fan or pouch, that should be it. Looks like an impressive list doesn't it? Better get started.... *grumble grumble*

Smock

10/01/08
Well, I had made one of these already last year but now, for the life of me, I cannot find it. I thought it was with the kirtle I made and was amazed I couldn't find either because the kirtle is booger green and kinda stands out. Then I found my kirtle but the smock is still lost.

Ugh... I may have to make another one. Oh well... it wouldn't take too long, I just don't think I have the fabric. May have to head to Giesse and pick up some cotton/linen.

----
10/02/08
Took the trip out to Giesse (the fabric store) today to grab some linen or cotton or something for this since I can't find my old one. Blah. Couldn't find any lightweight cottons or similar since I guess it's officially winter, they've brought out all the wools. Blah. Ended up getting a slightly heavier-weight white cotton blend from the remnant bin that should do I suppose. Not like anyone's going to see it anyway.

The smock was pretty much the only piece of clothing that was ever washed since it was closest to the body and no one ever saw it except perhaps you and your ladies' maids.

Planning on getting the smock done tomorrow... or possibly finishing up the embroidery on milord's shirt. Doubtful it would be both.

----
10/05/08
Finished! Took me about 2 hours to complete once I found the time to get to it. There's still a ton of loose threads I have to clip but my smock is complete. This is the first layer of the outfit. The corset will be the next.

Action shots! (pardon the nipplage, I wanted to see how it fit without a bra since I won't be wearing one with it any time later) (also, pardon the ladder and chair in the background, my husband didn't feel like moving from his office chair to help me take photos)







Pattern was drafted by me with help from the Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator.

I'm so glad I'm getting more of this outfit done. Makes me feel less rushed, ya know? Anywho, I think I may move on to the removable sleeves tomorrow. They won't take long to sew but might take awhile to embellish so I want to make sure I have enough time to work on them.

----
10/06/08

Found my first smock. *sigh* Oh well... I like this new one better anyhow. ^_^

----

Materials:

* fabric (approx. 4-6 yds)

List:

* cut fabric
* sew together

Stockings & Garters

10/01/08
I've never made stockings before. Or garters for that matter.

Hrm.

I have the ribbon trim I think I'm going to use for the garters. Milord found it the last time we went fabric shopping and I think it'll do quite nicely since it's red and gold.

----
10/02/08
Went to the fabric store today for fabric for the smock and came across some more trim. Perhaps I'll make several pairs of garters. ^_^ Also discovered some wonderfully soft wool remnants that will do great as stockings. I have a pair of store-bought medieval stockings that don't fit me and I missed the return/refund window on so I'm thinking I'll at least take those apart to figure out construction and simply make adjustments so they actually fit this time. Plus the wool has a bit more stretch than the linen they're made of so I'm sure that will help.

Shouldn't take at all long to whip them up once I get a pattern.

----
10/03/08
Finished up a pair of stockings! I might make another set but meh, that can wait. One for now is good. Took me 3 patterns (from various sources) to find one I liked without having to do much measuring. I still need to fix up the top edges (maybe some embroidery?) and make the garters.



The ribbon I'm using for the garters, doesn't it look great against the black wool?:



And some action shots (pardon the pasty white legs, black stockings don't help my tanless state):



And with my shoes. These stockings make the shoes MUCH more comfortable! Hopefully they won't be as blister-riffic as they have been when I'm wearing these:



----
10/24/08
Finished! They look kinda wonky and I may add some more trim to the backside but they're complete! Woot! One more thing off the list! I"ll add a photo later. ^_^

----
10/25/08
Just sneaking in the photo:



----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 1/8 yd)
* ribbon/trim for garters

List:

* cut pattern and fabric for stockings
* make stockings
* cut fabric and ribbon for garters
* sew fabric and ribbon together
* attach D-rings for adjustment

Corded Effigy Corset

10/01/08
I'm planning on making this out of the cotton/linen shown here. The golden chiffon-type stuff off to the side is what I'm planning on making the false front out of along with some rabbit fur trim.



The bodice will be made in such a way that I want the corset to peek through and show off the gold fabric and the rabbit fur. Tres decadent.

----
10/14/08
I finished cutting out the fabric today and am about halfway through sewing the channels. My butt hurts from sitting on the bench and my shoulders/back are achy from being hunched over for so long sewing channel after channel after channel. Easy but tedious work for sure. I'm taking a break for now. Probably won't finish tonight but eh, you never know. Sometimes I get a bug up my butt to do something for whatever reason and get my "second-wind" so to speak. I'm hoping to possibly finish up the channels tomorrow at least. Cording the hemp is again, relatively easy, but tedious work. At least I can do that part laying in bed. ^_^

----
10/15/08
Wootles! Finished the cording. Good thing I decided not to cord the majority of the back since I almost ran out of hemp. Still have one roll left minus 2 lengths out of the 6 I started with this morning. This sucker used a lot more hemp than the last one I made. Of course the last one was smaller lengthwise....

Anyway, wooo! Excited I've gotten most of it finished. My fingers are *killing* me though. See, the hemp tends to get stuck and the easiest way to get it into the channel is to roll it and push in at the same time. Hemp is not the softest fiber out there either. I mean, sure, when it's been washed a few times, it softens up, but in raw cord? Owwwie. I finished up an hour ago and my fingers are still bright red from all the friction. :(

Which is why I decided to order grommets to put in instead of doing the hand-bound ones again. Besides, with as many grommets are supposed to be on it, I'm not sure I have enough time to finish them by hand. I'm still putting off doing the hand-bound eyelets for my mom's purse strap.

So anywho, until the corset is grommeted, tailored and has the binding put on, I'll also be holding off on making the false front since I need the tops and sides to match up and everything.

I'll try to upload a photo tomorrow of what's done on this so far. It's looking rather decent. Much better than the first one at least. ^_^

----
10/17/08
As promised, a photo of what's done so far:



I still have to add the grommets and lacing, then fit and tailor a smidge more before adding the bias binding which will hide/finish all those raw ends of hemp and fabric. After that I'll be figuring out the false front I'm planning with the rabbit fur. Never sewn real fur before either... this project is full of firsts ain't it?

----
10/23/08
Well, I put the grommets in and tried this on yesterday and it fits, I'd just like it to be a smidge tighter (right now it's kinda sports bra-ish, not corset-like). Since it's front lacing I guess I'll have to add in back lacing as well. Which I suppose is for the best in case I gain or lose weight (hopefully lose) and can make it more adjustable.

I plan on attempting that later today. Once that's done and it's grommetted (crap, I hope I have enough of the same color to do the back..... ) I'll be able to add the bias edging. Nothing too spectacular. I'm thinking perhaps some of the leftover linen but I'm not sure I have enough, so it may just be the same white fabric I used for the smock and farthingale.

--
10/23/08-pt.2
I sliced the corset up the back, turned the edges and sewed them down. Added the grommets (didn't have enough of the antiqued ones so I had to use the gold... I may have to add more because the way it is now is causing the fabric at the bottom to bunch up weirdly) and laced 'er on up. Now it is VERY cleavage-riffic. ^_^ I'll be adding the binding tomorrow and perhaps adding more of the back grommets, as well as trying to make the false front. Still trying to think about how I'm going to attach the thing....

----
10/27/08
Wootles! Almost finished! I did up the bias tape this morning with my new nifty bias tape makers and added it to the corset. I'll have to go back and handsew near the ends and a few curves because my machine (and I) didn't like turning for those tabs at the waist but the corset itself is completed. I made up the false front super quick also but still have to figure out some way to attach it to the corset or gown or something. Hrm... I'm thinking maybe some snaps or lacing tabs of some sort? I think I'll stop by arts and crafts later and see if they have anything I could use.

----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 1 yd)
* 3 mm hemp cord (lots....)
* grommets

List:

* cut out pattern and fabric
* sew channels
* insert hemp cording
* add binding
* add eyelets
* make back-lacing and add grommets
* make false front with rabbit fur trim
* add some way to attach false front

Spanish Farthingale

10/01/08
I've managed to start construction on this already. It's a pretty simple skirt constructed with channels sewn in horizontally that hold something stiff like caning or willow reeds to support the heavier gown skirts above. Since I don't have access to caning or reeds, I've ordered some aquarium plastic tubing... lol. I know, completely NOT period but my pocketbook has to make adjustments somewhere and for $20, the price is right.

----
10/02/08
Well, I decided the size just wouldn't do so I'm going to have to readjust the pattern slightly and add another gored panel in to make it work (yes, I'm channeling Tim Gunn).

----
10/04/08
This was semi-stressing me out so I've decided to just order a pattern off the net. With as much as I have to finish in... *looks at calendar* ... 26 days I need all the help I can get and I just don't have the time now to figure out this pattern thing. Bah, oh well. This design seems to be nicer from the finished examples I've seen on-line anyway. Remember, this stuff isn't being made for wearing just once, I need it to last for perhaps multiple outfits for awhile to come.

----
10/17/08
Yay, I got the pattern in the mail yesterday and spent a bit this afternoon on starting. I've got the pattern all cut out and sewn together. I still have to do the waistband and hem bits but I believe I'll wait a bit for these bias tape makers I ordered to come in to make my life easier.

----
10/21/08
Meh, I figured I couldn't wait for the bias tape makers because I only have 10 days left to finish up this stuff so I went ahead and adapted without it. I've got the channels marked and have sewn down 3 so far. Taking a mini break to embroider some more of the shirt. It's coming along nicely though. ^_^ Hopefully I'll finish the channels tonight.

----
10/23/08
I've come to the conclusion that aquarium tubing = bad idea. It's not really holding the shape well and it's a PITA to get in. I can feed it in only so far and then I have to scrunch fabric up around the tip and then smooth it out as I pull the tube through. The reason this sucks is because the tubing STRETCHES!!! I did the shortest hoop (the one near the top) and it literally took me over an hour and the results are still less than spectacular.

I had the idea to still insert the tubing (might be quicker to rip out the seams of the channels and sew the tubing directly in though with a zipper foot) and inside the tubing use this fencing wire I had laying around but apparently I threw it out when I cleaned and organized my craft room. >_< This is why I try never to throw anything out, I end up needing it later. Gah. I'll try to figure something out. If nothing works, I still have a hoop skirt I bought off the net that I can maybe use or something.

----
10/29/08
Well, since my bodice is giving me so much trouble I don't really have time to figure out the farthingale. I'm going with the store-bought hoop skirt for this event and will be fixing the farthingale at a later date. :( I feel bad I have to write this one off for now.

----

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* add waistband
* mark fabric for channels
* sew channels
* add tubing
* add lacing

Bumroll

10/01/08
Should have enough fabric from the farthingale to make the bumroll as well. I'm thinking I might actually finish that later tonight since it's so easy to assemble.

----
10/02/08
Well, I didn't get it finished last night because I was feeling poorly so I ended up going to bed but I cranked that sucker out first thing this morning. Took maybe 3 hours total. I can't really "test" it's sturdiness until I have the gown and such done but ah well, it's done as far as I'm concerned.



And an action shot. I asked milord, "does this make my butt look big?" :P (the only time in a woman's life where the answer could POSSIBLY be yes and she wouldn't get offended)



----

Materials:
* fabric (approx. 1 yd)
* stuffing/fiberfill (or if you want to be historically accurate, fabric scraps)

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* stuff
* handstitch closed

Partlet

10/01/08
The fabric for the partlet:



Other than the red trim and a couple pearls I may leave this relatively unadorned for now.

10/08/08
Got the pattern in the mail today. :) I wasn't planning on using a pattern (and I may still just not use it for this project) but since I was buying patterns for the flat caps and there's was a special price if you bought 3, I went ahead and tossed the partlet pattern into the cart. I may take a look at it later tonight and see what I think.

----
10/09/08
Finished most of the partlet just now. Still have to add the ties and some sort of trim and/or pearl accents but the major sewing is done! ^_^ I actually ended up making 2 because the first one followed the pattern exactly and was way too little for me. I went ahead and finished it and I guess it'll join our other loaner garb. It may fit a young girl or even a teenager. The second one, I made MUCH larger and paid a bit more attention to my own measurements (neck and torso length for example) and it appears to fit a whole lot better (still have to add ties and such so not 100% on it but pretty darn sure).

Anywho, here's a photo (apologies for the weird angle, I took the photo upside-down and flipped it):



I'll have to dig through my ribbon stash and find something appropriate for the ties. I have extra fabric I was thinking of doing a sort of box-pleated ribbon trim look to the collar and maybe adding some glass pearls for accents. Also considering some red embroidery lines to jazz it up a bit but I may forgo those so it can be used with more than one gown later. Will definitely add photos with what I decide though. ;)

----
10/26/08
It's taken me awhile to get back to this. I've made up the box-pleated trim to add to the collar but haven't sewn it on yet. I went to the arts and crafts center on base to pick up some ribbon for the ties but they were closed for the week. :( I think I have some stuff in my stash that will work okay though. I think if I get too burned out on the gown and jerkin tomorrow I will take a "break" and work on this. Won't take long at all.

----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 2 yds - silk organza, chiffon, etc recommended)
* glass pearls (optional)
* lace trim (optional)
* embroidery thread (optional)

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* add trim and ribbon closure
* add pearls and accents (?)

Kirtle Skirt

10/01/08
Here's the fleur-de-lis fabric I have for the forepart:



Sorry again for the slight blurry-ness. The fleur-de-lis image is very subtle and I want it to pop more so I might add pearls to it or embroider or I don't know yet.

----
10/15/08
Well, since my fingertips need at least a day off from anything having to do with hand-sewing I think tomorrow I'm going to experiment with the fleur-de-lis fabric and some fabric paints to see how I can get those details to pop a smidge more than they do in real life. I have some metallic gold, a couple shades of yellow/gold and black I'm thinking of trying. I think I also have a metallic copper which may look neat with the corset front accent being about the same shade.

I'm still waiting on the farthingale pattern to show up so I'm kinda stuck for now on the actual construction of this skirt and the gown since they both go over the farthingale and I need to know how long to make them. Debating on getting milord to help me pin for the hemming or dragging my butt over to Mo's house since (no offense to milord) she actually knows what she's doing. :/

Anywho, possible photos soon of whatever I decide to do!

----
10/17/08
Well, I did some painting today and I'm still trying to decide which color to use. Take a peek:



I'm torn between the bronze and the black and milord prefers the bronze. Decisions, decisions.... I think I shall get some third+ opinions.

----
10/26/08
Darnit... I keep forgetting about this part. *sigh* Not sure I have enough of that white fabric left over actually.... I may just add a forepart to my farthingale and call it a day since I have so much left to do. *gah* I'll cut up the fabric and do the painting first thing tomorrow so it has time to dry and perhaps I'll have time to finish it up on Tuesday. As you can see from the photos of the knee breeches, I've decided to go with the black paint. I figure it'll look the best if I decide to later add any pearls or beading for embellishment.

----
10/28/08
I cut out the forepart today and painted the detailing. I'll let it dry overnight and then figure out what to do with it. :/ I'm heavily leaning towards adding it to the farthingale. Hrm... maybe I can re-use the fabric I used for the first farthingale that was too small.....

If I add in the forepart piece it will be more than large enough. All I'd have to do is add a waistband afterwards. This is a good idea... I'll have to look into doing that tonight.

----
10/29/08
Well, I tried adding the forepart to that first farthingale skirt I cut and it works perfectly!! ^_^ All I need to do now is add a waistband and some way to lace it and I'll be all set.

----

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* add forepart
* add detailing
* add waistband and lacing
* hem skirt

Removable Sleeves

10/01/08
Here's the fabric intended for the sleeves. It is the same red velvet that will be used for the french gown and the sleeved jerkin. Also shown with the white chiffon fabric I will be bunch up for the puff detailing.



----
10/10/08
Well, the fabric is in the washer now so I may start on these tonight if it's dry in time or perhaps tomorrow. In the meantime I think I'm going to fiddle around with some pearl and ruby detailing that will later be sewn down.

----
10/12/08
I'm about half-way through the puff detailing now. Have the left sleeve finished and some of the chiffon cut and sewn to start on the right tomorrow. Then I just have to add some pearls and stuff and a lining and one more thing off the list!! ^_^ Things are coming along soooo nicely. And the fabric is so much nicer now that it's washed. I only cut off and washed one panel and I've already made 2 hats and cut both sleeves from it and have enough left over to do the bodice. And that's not even getting into the acres I have left!! I'm thinking maybe a couple more panels cut for the skirt and I'll be good to go. Oh yeah, and milord's jerkin. I might start on that tomorrow rather than finish up the right sleeve. I'm starting to get a callous/sore spot on my pinkie from all the hand-sewing I've done the past few days so it might be good for a rest from that.

----
10/13/08
Today was a rather lazy day so I spent most of it hand-sewing more puffs on the sleeves and I started on the detailing. I'm so *in love* with how they're turning out! Take a peek:



Oh, not enough for you? Okay fine, here's a bit more:



STILL not enough? Why you greedy sons of....



There fine, ya happy now? ^_^

Still have one sleeve left to do and I'm toying with the idea of adding something within each square but I can always put that off until after Halloween. I'm so pleased with how everything is coming along so nicely. Although it makes me wonder whats going to get screwed up later that I have to spend up to the last minute fixing. As one garb-mistress said, "if you're not sewing yourself into it, it's not finished." :D

----
10/14/08
Finished up that second sleeve! Moving on to something else... woohoo! Coming along nicely. Only 16 days left though... better get cracking!

----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 1 yd main/lining colors - each - and 2 yds chiffon or similar)
* glass pearls (they'll hold up for much longer than plastic ones)

List:

* cut fabric
* add white puff detailing diamonds
* add pearls
* sew together

French Gown

10/25/08
Finally got started today on my dress. ^_^ I've cut out the fabric and lining for the bodice and am working on putting it together now. Have to make a few more adjustments to get it looking like I want it to in the front but it's going good so far. From past experience I know it won't take me but a couple hours to finish up the skirt either. Then I would just have the trim left.

I noticed while putting together the hats that the polyester silk lining and the red velvet do NOT PLAY WELL TOGETHER. :/ That issue was easily rectified (ie - hidden) due to the design of the hat, but wouldn't work well with the bodice lining. So, like I've done with the knee breeches, I'm doing french seams in hope they're a bit better. So far, so good. :)

----
10/26/08
Finished up with assembling the skirt today. Did a bit of handsewing on the bodice to get the lining to stay "hidden" behind the fabric... still need to finish up a bit of that. I also have to work on getting the portions where the sleeves will tie to the bodice done.

Will probably get started tomorrow with cartridge pleating the skirts and hand-sewing them onto the bodice. That part's never that fun but easy enough to do. Although last time I did box pleats and machine stitched.... Anywho, as I've said in other posts, I'm hoping to have the majority of this thing done by Tuesday. Setting aside Wednesday to finish up the trimmings. ^_^ Still too much to do and I'm a bit stressed but things are still moving along well enough.

----
10/27/08
Well, I'm *retarded*. It finally occurred to me to try on the bodice with the corset. Gah. It's way too big and just doesn't work. Altering it lifts the waistline up by like 4 inches... so I have to re-do. :( I'm definitely going without the lining next time. It causes WAY too many problems with this project and at this point is pretty unnecessary anyway. *sigh*

This makes me so discouraged.... :( I had made up a muslin and everything (that fit without the corset on). I guess I'll end up making another muslin tonight (WITH THE CORSET ON!!) so I can get started on it first thing tomorrow. For now, I'm off to cook dinner.

----
10/29/08
Gah... ran out of fabric AGAIN. I'm washing another panel. I had done up another bodice pattern and lo and behold, when I tried it on it still didn't fit correctly. I used that to make a third one and the muslin fits perfectly now. But I'm out of fabric and have to wash some more. *sighs* Third times a charm??

Hopefully....

----
10/29/08 Pt. 2
Yay, it worked!! I hand-sewed the new bodice to the skirts and I still need to touch up a few spots (skirts were heavier than I thought and I need to add more stitches where it loosened) and add the trim and eyelets to close it but it's mostly done!!! *whew* I'm soooo glad it turned out well finally. I was going to cry I was so frustrated with the darn thing. :/

----

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* make bodice
* make skirt
* add pleats to skirt
* sew skirt to bodice
* add velvet trim

Flat Caps

10/08/08
Yay! I received my hat patterns in the mail today and I also got the millinery supplies in yesterday so I may head into this soon. Wish me luck, my first time making hats... lol. It's bound to be... *eventful*. :P

----

10/10/08
I still can't believe I'm making a hat... lol. This is so cool. I am definitely going to try my hand at making more. Right now I've only got maybe 2/3rds done. The red velvet needed to be washed badly (very musty and dirty because the previous owner kept it in a basement on the floor) so I've had it airing out in the sun for half the day and it's now in the washer. Until that's dry I can't go any further with the hat making. For now, I guess it's called the "mulling" is done. I took a photo at the step just before that.



At this point, the millinery wire has been hand-sewn to the edge of 2 pieces of heavy buckram and then covered with some french bias tape that's been glued down. I've also sewn some fleece (according to the directions, it's supposed to be flannel, but I didn't have any in the house that I wanted to spare and I figure fleece is fine as a stand-in) to both sides and trimmed all the seams down.

Can't wait to see what it looks like finished. ^_^

----
10/11/08
Well, I finished up with the TWO flat caps today. ^_^ Here's a photo of milord's cap before I sewed it to the brim:



And here's mine being modeled by Caleb the teddy bear:





I'm still waiting for my ostrich feathers to arrive and I'll add those and I'm also working on ideas for other embellishments. More pearls or gold beads, perhaps rubies in some fashion. Haven't decided yet. Anywho, I'm excited they're done for the most part and still amazed that I made a hat... much less two. LOL!

----
10/28/08
Made a biggins cap today. Well, at least a facsimile of one. I still need to sew in "catches" for the hairpins to keep it in place and also figure out how to keep the hat on my head with hatpins....

Anywho, my cap is cute. A bit small but will do the job nicely I think. :)

Knee Breeches

10/08/08
Had milord try on his current pair of knee breeches to see if they fit since I'm using them as a general pattern for these new ones. His only real issue with them is that they're too short and pop out of his knee boots when he sits down so these new ones will have to be longer. That and I'm not adding pockets because they would look retarded and aren't anywhere near period accurate. Not to mention my pants pocket making skills are probably dismal. I could figure it out eventually but I can't handle that kinda of stress right now anywho.

But anyways, the old ones fit so I'll be using them as a template/pattern of sorts for these new ones.

----
10/23/08
I cut out the fabric and painted the pieces today. Gonna let them dry overnight and heat set the paint tomorrow and assemble the thing. Hopefully it fits. The muslin I did up was a smidge too tight so I made them more than a bit larger. Always easier to take them in, much more difficult to make them bigger. I have a feeling I will have to take them in, but meh, no biggie.

----
10/24/08
Well, I finished up sewing as much as I can without milord here to try them on and see if they fit. I have a feeling they'll be a mite large but with the drawstring waist and buttonflap, should be good to go. All I have left to do is sew on the waistband and the buttons/buttonholes. Should finish that up later tonight and hopefully start work on the sleeved jerkin and my dress this weekend. I hope to be finished with all the major sewing by Tuesday. *crosses fingers**

----
10/25/08
Had milord try them on and they are a too big by about 6 inches or so. I'll be having him try them on again so I can mark where they should be and fix them up. Anywho, the real reason for the update is the photo I took of the in progress.



Kitties gotta find their way into the photo somehow don't they? ^_^

And here's a photo showing off my beautiful (if I do say so myself) french seams:



Milord has chosen the buttons he prefers (larger wooden ones) and I'll be putting on the waistband and finishing with those tomorrow hopefully. :)

----
10/26/08
And another one bites the dust!! Finished the knee breeches today. Had milord try them on about 4 times during the process... pretty sure he's already sick of wearing them. :P Will post photos later!

----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 3 yds)
* buttons
* cord for drawstring

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* add embellishment to fleur-de-lis pattern
* add waistband
* add buttons/buttonholes

Blackworked Shirt

10/01/08
Thankfully I already have a white shirt for milord that I planned on doing some blackwork embroidery on. Shouldn't take too long to finish that up.

----
10/02/08
Scratch that "shouldn't take too long" part, I forgot how long it takes to embroider stuff. Gah. Back to the stitching....

----
10/03/08
Finished the left cuff today. No pics yet because it's still wet from where I rinsed off the Mark-B-Gone marker I was using as a guide for the stitchwork. It's not my best either. Silk sucks for this sort of thing. I may go back over everything at a later date to make it more substantial but for now what I'm doing will satisfy the 10-foot rule. I think I might try harder at the collar portion since that's the part most people will spend a lot of time seeing.

----
10/09/08
Finally bothered to upload a photo of the cuff I have finished. I'm not at all loving the stitchwork on this though. I haven't done any work on it since the last time I posted either. I think I'm putting it off because I'm so discouraged with what I've done so far. Definitely some crappy mistakes and I see now I have to start and end each flower individually because you can see the thread through the fabric. Bah. Anywho... here's a photo of what I have done so far:



It's done in split stitch but I'm really not liking how it's, ... well, splitting. I may try a stem stitch for the other cuff and see how I like that look. I will also make smaller stitches so the flowers aren't so blocky looking. :/

----
10/18/08
I got a lot more stitching on this done today. Finished up the right cuff and got 7 or 8 done on the collar. I'm still doing split stitch but I switched to a DMC cotton instead of the silk and it's looking a LOT better. A lot nicer from across the room as well. I'll be ripping out the satin threads from the left cuff and re-doing it after I finish up with the collar. I'm really glad it's looking so much better. I'll try to post photos tomorrow so y'all can see the difference. ^_^

----
10/24/08
Finished up with the collar just now. ^_^ I had to wash the previously done silk cuff because it had stained the fabric a lovely (read: "ick") brown/gray from when I washed away the Mark-B-Gone marker that I was using as a guide. So, I have to wait for it to dry before I can mark it again and finish up with the last bit. Soooo much hand-sewing today. Owwie. *sucks thumb*

----
10/25/08
Yay!! Finished!! *happy dance* It still needs to be ironed (badly) but I thought I'd go ahead and post a photo of all my hard work. See how much better the cotton looks?





Glad to have something else complete. ^_^

----

Materials:

* white shirt (mine was purchased from a ren faire booth for around $30 IIRC)
* embroidery thread

List:

* embroider collar (19 rosettes)
* embroider left cuff (7 rosettes)
* embroider right cuff (7 rosettes)

Sleeved Jerkin

10/25/08
I uhh... lost my Tudor Tailor book. It had the pattern outline in it. Bah. I've searched everywhere. It should be in the bedroom, living room, craft room or the office (only places I've taken it) but I can't find it. :( Very boo. I have one of the big three's doublet patterns and I'm thinking I will have to take that and adapt it possibly.... I guess we'll find out tomorrow. :/

----
10/26/08
Yay!! I found my book!! *dances* Definitely glad I found it. It was hiding behind a chair next to the dresser in the bedroom. *sigh* Anywho, started a bit of work on this today. Figured once again that armscythes are not my forte. I'm getting better though. After cutting up the 2 panels I washed yesterday for my skirt, I barely had enough fabric to work on the man-bodice portion of this. Still need to add some more across the chest too.

Anywho, will be washing/drying another panel tonight and finishing this puppy up tomorrow hopefully. I hope to have all the major sewing done by Tuesday. Then perhaps adding the trim and stuff on Wednesday. Finishing touches Thursday. Friday is for relaxing and making cupcakes for the party. ^_^

----
10/27/08
Holy crap this thing uses a lot of fabric. I've cut out 3 "skirt" panels (milord doesn't like me calling them skirts although that's what the pattern calls them... but whatever, I'm a seamstress, not defender of his masculinity) and still need one more. I also need to re-do the "bodice" portion or add on to it, not sure which one yet. The sleeves are also bothering me... gah.

Need to wash another panel tonight so still not getting to this one until tomorrow it looks like. *sigh* I hate the "down to the wire" stuff. **stresses**

----
10/28/08
Alllllmost finished with this. I need to work on cuffs and add the trim but otherwise, it's finished. ^_^ Milord was suitably impressed now that it's put together. Just trying on a pieced vest or looking at the photo I drew apparently wasn't good enough for him to "get the picture". I'll have to have him put everything on before Friday for a trial run to make sure it all looks good together though.

----
10/29/08
Rather than dealing with gathering so much sleeve fabric into a much smaller cuff, I simply hemmed them. Milord prefers them more open anyhow and they're more likely to show off the wonderful stitchwork I did on the shirt. ^_^

I'm still going to add some sort of frog clasp across the top to keep the collar shut and I have to do the trim which I guess will come along tomorrow. :)

----

Materials:

* fabric (approximately 8 yards)

List:

* cut pattern and fabric
* sew together
* add cuffs
* add velvet trim